IN the same way we all have our preferences in art, music, fashion and partners; we also have individual palate favourites for mouth feel, textures, length, finesse and flavour.
Attend any masked wine tasting and this will become apparent quickly.
These white wines are our selection of the best available over the past year and while some are readily available, some you may have to seek out or even contact the relevant winery to express interest.
Gewürztraminer
This esoteric variety arrived in an explosion of enthusiasm in the 1970s and died just as quickly.
The two best Australian examples that we have seen in 10-15 years are the currently available Penfolds Cellar Reserve 2008 release that is low-keyed, restrained, long and satisfying (18.1 points and RRP $33.95), and the extraordinary and very limited cool area Tasmanian Moorilla Estate Muse Series, which is a great Australian wine in its own right (18.3 pts and RRP $35.00 at cellar door only).
Pinot Gris
Of the 50 or 60 pinot gris and pinot grigio tried over the past few months, the Chandon 2009 Pinot Gris from the Domaine Chandon (Moet & Chandon) Yarra Valley Vineyard was clearly our preferred.
Perhaps the word “wow” best summed up the balance, texture, class, restraint, length and finesse (18pts and RRP $26.60).
Riesling
There were three great Australian rieslings at the top of the hierarchy where Jeff Grosset’s Polish Hill (18.6pts and $46.70) always stands alone.
Add the fragrant and hauntingly beautiful Cherubino Porongurup Riesling 2009 (18.6pts and $33) and the classically structured Heemskerk from Tasmania (18.6pts and $47.50).
While these three wines are classic styles, the two best drinking releases of the year were the The Yard Pannoo 2009 (18.4pts and $26) and the still available Skillogalee 2009 (18.3pts RRP $23.50).
Viognier
This, too, was an esoteric varietal until, as illustrated in recent Millbrook International comparative viognier tastings, it became a mainstream style.
Our Aussie viognier of the year? The Millbrook “Estate” (18.4pts and RRP $35) and Limited Release versions (18.4pts and $40.00) just edged out several of Yalumba’s marvellous releases.
Sauvignon Blanc
Looking back through the year’s notes it was the Cherubino Pemberton Sauvignon Blanc 2009 that gained Australia’s highest points.
Semillon Sauvignon Blanc - Unwooded
We have recently nominated the Voyager Estate (18.1pts and RRP $24) and the Lenton Brae releases 2009 (18.1pts and RRP $24.95) but also include Jeff Grosset’s 2009 (18.3pts and RRP $33.70) release.
Semillon-Sauvignon Blanc – Wooded
The two Cullen 2008 wines – The Mangan (18.3pts and RRP $35) and the Cullen Vineyard (18.5pts and RRP $35) releases – The Yard 2009 (18.3pts and RRP $28) and the Cape Mentelle Wallcliffe 2007 (18.2pts and RRP $41) are all at least the equal of any wines of this style yet made in Australia.
Sweet White
In a category where the De Bortoli Noble Botrytis Semillon always dominates, this year the best value goes to its almost unknown Deen Vat 5 Botrytis Semillon (18.3pts RRP $13.50 a half) as against the Noble at $35.
This year’s sweet white of the year, and by a significant margin, is the delicious gold medal and trophy festooned Brown Brothers 2006 Botrytis Riesling (18.5pts and $38 a half).